“The Palatine Pedal” is a long-distance, multi-terrain cycling tour around the pre-1974 County Palatine boundaries of Durham [in medieval times, ultimate authority in the “palatinate” of Durham lay with its “prince-bishop” appointed by, and governing on behalf of, the monarch]. I created this challenging route in 2024 to showcase County Durham’s diverse landscape and its unique history (it’s worth remembering that the county is literally the “birthplace of the railways”). Many of the sites visited are also included in the long-distance walking trails I promote on The Durham Cow – the Weardale Way and the Teesdale Way.
Apart from its diversity – including miles of sandy beaches on the stunning North Sea coast – the region’s rivers are the route’s defining feature. To the west are the dales of the North Pennines, where you’ll find yourself within a bird call of the headwaters of the Wear and the Tees. The sleepy Tyne, for the most part, is tidal and defines the route’s northern boundary; elsewhere you’ll see a bit of the Derwent, a fleeting glimpse of the Team and, if you’re on the ball, you might notice the Lune, the Balder and the nascent East Allen rushing down the dale past Allenheads. The rivers have given their names to the dales through which they run – Weardale, Tynedale, Derwentdale, Allendale and Teesdale – deep, frequently steep, valleys separated by exposed ridges for which you’ll definitely need your climbing legs.
Shared cycling infrastructure is favoured in urban areas – though the final decision is yours. Out of town the route makes use of the many railway paths that are a legacy of Durham’s industrial past, allowing elevation to be gained gradually. In the west – between Weardale and Teesdale – you’ll traverse England’s highest public road which falls away rapidly to descend the entire length of Teesdale, back to the much flatter, increasingly urban, landscape from whence you came. There’s an elevated plateau running from Sunderland to Hartlepool which makes getting between Durham and the coast more of a challenge than it would be otherwise.
Throughout all of the huffing and puffing are many sites of history and hospitality (some are both) where you can take a break – or just slow down – enjoy and explore. Romans, medieval magnates and, most significantly, the giant hand of the Industrial Revolution have all left their mark on a county wherein change continues apace. On that note, bear in mind that while hospitality options are virtually limitless in the eastern half they need to be considered more carefully in the more arduous terrain of the west.
Major transport hubs are centred on cities and towns in the central/eastern half of the route, primarily Durham but, just as easily, Newcastle/Gateshead, South Shields, Sunderland, Middlesbrough, Stockton-on-Tees and Darlington.
If you have family or friends who you think would enjoy The Palatine Pedal, featuring County Durham’s unique countryside and heritage, PLEASE SHARE this page or any of its linked content.
Stats at a Glance
Distance 190 miles/306 km | Height Gain 11,939 ft/3639 m | Maximum Elevation 622 m/2041 ft (Chapel Fell, Weardale) | Number of Sections 11 | Average Distance per Section 17 miles/27 km | Longest Section Section 11 (24 miles/39 km) | Shortest Section Sections 7 & 9 (10 miles/16 km) | Start & Finish Durham (Market Place) NZ 274426 (what3words: shirt.slams.cross) | GPS FILE (COMPLETE ROUTE)
National Cycle Network (NCN) Paths NCN 1/EuroVelo (EV)12; 7 (C2C); 14 (Pittington Way/Walney2Wear, Keelman’s Way, Derwent Walk/C2C, Haswell2Hart); 70; 72 (Hadrian’s Cycleway); 141 (Keelman’s Way); 165; 715
Click the PLAY arrow on the map to view the route dynamically together with a few hospitality suggestions (sections drawn in red on the map are clickable route options). Change from kilometres to miles by clicking appropriately in the window, bottom left. Once the route is playing, click on the menu in the window (top right) for more options including links to the FREE ROUTE FILES which you can download in different formats. Alternatively, click the link to the GPS file in Stats at a Glance to go directly to the page on Plotaroute (once you’re there scroll down to view the downloadable file types).I
Watch the Palatine Pedal in a Day (3 Parts) on 
Photographs of the The Palatine Pedal are available in our Google Gallery
The Challenge
At 190-miles (306 km) long and almost 12,000 ft (3639 m) of ascent most people wouldn’t consider the Palatine Pedal to be a day-ride. Using a variety of surfaces, but mainly road, the Palatine Pedal will challenge the fittest cyclist depending on how it’s ridden. While it CAN be done in a day it’s probably best experienced by breaking it down into shorter sections when the highest hills might simply be seen as offering the best views. Although I didn’t start there myself, I’ve suggested Durham’s market place as a starting point as it’s a bit more obvious, easy to access and equally close to the railway station but you could start anywhere you like, and it doesn’t have to be in Durham: Newcastle, Gateshead or Sunderland will work equally well and Darlington or Middlesbrough almost as well.
The route’s unique challenge relies on the region’s geography as described earlier. Several major rivers – flowing eastwards to the North Sea – have cut into the landscape creating a series of high ridges. The resulting dales, valleys and denes all offer their own brand of challenge. Following them – east-west -is often quite easy but crossing them – north-south – requires more effort and lower gears.
The further upriver (west) you go the harder it gets, particularly on the Tyne, Wear and Derwent. The Tees however, is a bit different: going anti-clockwise, Teesdale offers a long, undulating descent to the generally flat Tees Lowlands where cycling is much easier. Prevailing winds blow west to east, the same direction in which the rivers flow. Riding it in the direction I recommend means that you’ll have an easier second half, particularly from Chapel Fell (the highest point of the route) all the way to Barnard Castle – a nice reward for the effort it takes to get there!
The North Pennine gradients are characteristically long, often with steep sections and, at times, winding. Up or down, they need to be treated with respect – particularly the descents – if you want to get the best out of them. Surfaces vary from smooth tarmac to gravel, loose ballast and even rocks, plus there are fun features like pot-holes, drainage channels, gates, sheep and other furry or feathery friends to contend with! I’ve broken the route into 11 sections based on what I consider to be the optimum distances with regard to challenge and hospitality (easier sections can more readily be strung together).
The Route
The map below offers a number of route choices – on and off-road. I’ve prioritised what I think is the optimum route but you might disagree. Clicking on the options (in red) will load them on the map in Plotaroute. Traffic-wise it can be quite busy – dependent on timings – particularly the eastern half of the route. This is why I’ve preferred so many cycle and shared use paths. However, it makes for slower going with many access barriers – of the cycling type – to deal with. So, depending on how you feel about traffic, you might prefer to use the road – or a bit of both.
I never forget that “change is constant”, particularly on long-distance routes like this. I always try to publish updates for my routes but it’s often by relying on feedback from users although I constantly use the local trails for cycling, running and walking. Let me know of any issues that you’ve had to deal with or that might be impending. I can’t promise to resolve them but I’ll help where I can, at least by letting others know.
If you’d like more cycling and walking routes, visit the Durham Cow on Plotaroute.
Section by Section
I’ve graded the sections ‘easy’, ‘moderate’ and ‘challenge’ based on my (and my wife’s) perception of distance, ascent (length and grade), surface and skill/confidence. Of course it’s highly subjective – a bit of fun really, though it might help some. The sections listed as ‘easy’ should be able to be managed comfortably (in terms of effort at least) by ‘occasional cyclists’ allowing sufficient time, even if they need to push on short gradients (there’s nothing wrong with pushing, as long as you’re still enjoying it). Even so, you’ll see there are only a few sections that I believe qualify as ‘easy’.
Section 1: Durham to Seaham | 13 miles/21 km | 757’/231 m | Moderate | GPS FILE
Apart from a fairly tough climb to get out of Durham, this section is fairly easy, barely deserving its grading of ‘moderate’. It makes extensive use of railway paths (including the NCN 70 Walney-to-Wear and NCN 1/EV 12) and other minor trails, some of which can be muddy in, or directly after, wet weather. There’s a long downhill section from Cold Hesledon, on a well surfaced part of the NCN 1/EV 12 railway path, that will take you right into Lord Londonderry’s coal port of Seaham.
Section 2: Seaham to South Shields | 18 miles/29 km | 895’/273 m | Easy | GPS FILE
There are two short, sharp climbs on this section both of which can be avoided easily. The first is a brief diversion that visits the lower promenade above the beach, shortly after the coastal start in Seaham. The second is quite similar, again at the coast, in Roker. Other than that the route is very gently undulating. Roads are generally busy but there’s a lot of dedicated cycle path, with an improving surface, as well shared-use paths, for most of the journey beyond Ryhope. Traversing the centre of Sunderland is more straightforward than it might seem and the same goes for South Shields. It’s even easier if you choose to go at off-peak times.
Section 3: South Shields to Wylam | 22 miles/35 km | 875’/267 m | Moderate | GPS FILE
On this section, the River Tyne is always close by, making it in theory, an easy ride along the Keelman’s Way (KW). But don’t be fooled, the section between Hebburn and Gateshead needs more development to make it ideal for the average cyclist – if there is such a thing. There are short, sharp climbs, tight turns and narrow, shared-use paths where the surface is occasionally inconsistent and unpredictable. Ever the optimist, I expect things will improve if current development is anything to go by. Dedicated and shared-used paths elsewhere offer safe, relatively swift progress. Gateshead to Dunston is a fairly relaxed section apart from the junction near the swing bridge which is normally busy.
There’s a cycle path of sorts from Dunston to Gateshead Metro Centre but I recommend taking the road option (I do this in the video). However, if you prefer to isolate yourself from the traffic then the cycle path will do that nicely. After that, apart from a trip through an industrial estate in Blaydon, the KW – as far as Newburn – is a nice ride on varied terrain though possibly muddy in places during wet weather. Access to Newburn Bridge isn’t particularly easy and might involve pushing (it’s easier if you ride upstream, under the bridge and access it from that side). On the other side of the river the route joins Hadrian’s Cycleway via Tyne Riverside Country Park. Much of the distance remaining is on the pleasant but popular Wylam Waggonway.
Section 4: Wylam to Consett | 14 miles/22 km | 1653’/504 m | Challenge | GPS FILE
Here’s where the proper climbing begins, in fact there’s almost twice as much climbing as descending. You depart the Tyne Valley almost as soon as you cross the Tyne itself, heading ever upwards through narrow, quiet lanes, where the surface is in varying states of repair. It’s punctuated halfway up by a busy and fast-moving bypass which needs to be crossed. Beyond the bypass, the lane continues to pull upwards before kicking up to its steepest gradient which I estimate at about 8-10%. It’s not too long but enough to get you blowing. Thereafter begins a 3-mile, gently undulating pull to the very top of the ridge with fine views of both the Tyne and Derwent valleys.
The long descent through the former colliery town of Chopwell – sprawling across the hillside – is steep and potentially fast, easily as fast as the traffic. There’s a couple of 90-degree bends and other traffic-calming measures so you’ll need to take care. At the bottom – immediately after crossing the River Derwent – there’s a short, steep hill that can catch you out easily if you’re in the wrong gear.
After a short stretch of busy road, you reach Low Weetwood where there’s another steep climb – poorly surfaced – to reach the Derwent Walk. This marks the next section of railway path which is also part of the C2C route to Tynemouth. It’s muddy in wet weather, multi-use and popular, so be aware of cyclists, walkers, dog-walkers, horse-riders. In general, it pulls upwards – gently and persistently – all the way to Consett, punctuated with a few steep embankments – up and down – where it intersects roads or tracks. Some of the these intersections are quite sketchy, so take care.
Section 5: Consett to Allenheads | 20 miles/33 km | 2103’/641 m | Challenge | GPS FILE
The biggest contrast on Section 5, to anything encountered so far, is its exposure to the elements particularly WIND and rain. Leaving Consett, the route continues to climb – albeit gradually – on the Waskerley Way railway path, heading into the North Pennines. Coming before the C2C separation to Roker or Tynemouth there are more cyclists on this part of the route and they’re usually heading towards you – quickly in places. It’s good advice to keep your head up and keep left, particularly when acending. Just a note that if the wind is REALLY bad (and it can be) there’s a high-wind, all-road, alternative via Edmundbyers and Blanchland.
The first feature of note is Hownsgill Viaduct offering spectacular views northwards and where you’ll first get a sense of the wind conditions. Regardless of its strength, it’s quite likely that the wind will be in your face which is why most C2C’ers will be riding in the opposite direction. Although it’s rarely more than a gentle gradient, you might feel that this part of the route – particularly beyond Whitehall – is the hardest section of all. When the wind’s blowing strongly, the three-mile, flat section, past Waskerley Reservoir, to Park Head (where the cafe, at the time of writing, is still closed and much missed) can test your resolve as there’s no shelter whatsoever.
After Park Head, the route crosses the B6278 where the C2C splits again. One version of the C2C heads left down Crawleyside Bank to Stanhope while the other continues onto the banked track directly opposite. The second option is also open to us but I’d advise against it. Although it’s flat, it’s also slower, due to the surface and the fact that the trail runs for quite a long way in a deep, narrow rut – deep enough in places to catch the pedals. There’s also at least one tract of persistently boggy ground to deal with where – unless you’re really aggressive – you’ll probably get wet feet.
I recommend that you turn right and make the effort to climb on the road to the top of the moor, rejoining the trail a few miles further on after Dead Friars Quarry. Be aware that this section of road – Meadows Edge – is extremely exposed to westerly winds – my wife never lets me forget riding along it at about 45-degrees on the tandem! It’s rarely as bad as that but if it is, I’d recommend the high-wind route option (see the map). Back on the gravelly trail after Dead Friars, the long, gentle incline to the old engine house on Bolts Law is either a nice pedal around the top of Stanhope Common or a bit of a slog if its windy.
Beyond the engine house there’s a long slope heading downwards into the dale. It’s a former railway incline, one of several used to haul goods up and down steep sides of the dales where moving engines couldn’t go. In the late c19th this one hauled minerals – mainly lead – up from Boltsburn Mine in Rookhope. The surface of the kilometre-long descent is loose and rocky in places with wide drainage channels, cutting across at angles, spaced at regular intervals. With a modicum of confidence it’s rideable on all but the most delicate of road bikes though more fun on a mountain bike – with suspension – in my opinion. You’ll need decent brakes though! At the bottom of the first long part there’s a rocky bend to the left before a – usually – closed gate. The final part, into the village of Rookhope, is even steeper and just as loose but again, is rideable with care. There’s no longer a pub in Rookhope but there’s still a bunkhouse, often used by C2C cyclists or Pennine Journey walkers.
On the other side of the village comes a long pull on the road, through the upper dale over to Allenheads, in Allendale, Northumberland. The charismatic stone arch on the Bolts Burn, just outside the village, once supported a long, stone flue built to vent fumes from the lead smelter at Lintzgarth high up the nearby fell. Approaching the top of the dale you encounter the distinctive headgear of Grove Rake mine, the most recently worked mine in Weardale.
The summit of the ridge isn’t too far away and is visible from quite a way off, courtesy of a tall, stone cairn marking the boundary of County Durham and Northumberland. From there it’s a long, winding, and potentially fast descent (complete with cattle grid) down to Allenheads where there are good hospitality options (on any day but a Wednesday) at The Hemmel cafe or Allenheads Inn.
Section 6: Allenheads to Middleton-in-Teesdale | 19 miles/31 km | 2057’/627 m | Challenge | GPS FILE
If you’re not opting to stop in Allenheads then you’ll turn left before descending to the cafe, to go straight back uphill on the B6295 for a mile-long climb alongside a decidedly youthful River East Allen, over Allendale Common into Weardale, County Durham. The climb summits at the County Durham ‘Land of the Prince Bishops’ sign after which there’s a long descent to Wearhead which – as the name suggests – is at the head of the River Wear. Prevailing westerly winds may still be a problem but occasionally from the side rather than persistently in the face.
The route undulates gently for the relatively short distance to St John’s Chapel, past the Weardale Museum at Ireshopeburn during which time you might even have a tailwind. St John’s offers a few hospitality options, not least of which is the Chatterbox Cafe in the marketplace where there’s also a shop.
If you stopped at Allenheads then there’s a good chance you’ll make a right turn, just before the marketplace, to confront the route’s biggest challenge, the two-and-a-half mile climb over Chapel Fell, which has the distinction of being England’s highest public road (one that’s shared with Killhope, a few miles away). With an average gradient of 8% and a maximum 16% it rates a 9/10 in Simon Warren’s book 100 Greatest Cycling Climbs.
There’s a tough start past a row of c16th farm cottages which always provide a distraction for me; it’s not very long though. Further up there’s the ‘bomb hole’, as I refer to it, a wholly unnecessary descent to the bridge over the West Grain beck. Once you’ve hauled yourself out of it you’ll see the uninterrupted climb stretching to the heavens in front of you.
The wind’s going to be a significant factor here: if it’s blowing in the normally prevailing direction, with any strength at all, it’s going to make things tougher, just remember that nothing lasts forever. Have a break and take in the views if there are any (there very often aren’t). When you reach the blocked entrance to Harthope ganister quarry – on the right – you’re nearly there but be warned, the final half-kilometre to the Weardale/Teesdale boundary at the summit seems to take forever.
After giving yourself a pat on the back, enjoy the long descent to the bridge over the Langdon Beck and the great views of Upper Teesdale including Cow Green Reservoir, Great Dun Fell (with its golf ball radome) and Cross Fell, the highest peak in the Pennines.
Immediately after the bridge there’s another short and relatively easy climb before you finally descend to the main road through Teesdale (B6277) from where you can normally expect a tailwind all the way to the coast.
The delights of Upper Teesdale are laid out before you: there’s the nascent River Tees which can be glimpsed here and there, not long escaped from Cow Green Reservoir via Cauldron Snout, England’s largest cascade. There are charismatic Whin Sill outcrops at Cronkley Scar and Dineholm Scar. High Force (England’s biggest waterfall) is very close but out of sight, as is Low Force a bit further down the dale. Mickle Fell (County Durham’s highest peak) can be identified in the distance, as can Holwick Scar and the distinctive copse that marks the Bronze Age burial mound of Kirkcarrion.
Hospitality options, this far up the dale, are actually quite numerous: there’s Langdon Beck Inn and Langdon Beck YHA (pre-booking essential), High Force Hotel and Bowlees Visitor Centre (definitely worth a visit if its open) before arriving at Middleton-in-Teesdale, the main town of the middle dale, well resourced and one-time headquarters of the London Lead Mining Company.
Section 7: Middleton-in-Teesdale to Barnard Castle | 10 miles/16 km | 636’/194 m | Moderate | GPS FILE
At ten miles, this is first of the two shortest sections on the Palatine Pedal. The route undulates steadily downhill through the middle dale, never too far away from the River Tees. While hopefully, you’ll have a decent tailwind it’s punctuated with punchy climbs, the first and last of which are from bridges over the Tees – first up there’s Middleton Bridge, immediately after leaving Middleton-in-Teesdale and lastly, County Bridge – up to the Buttermarket at the bottom of Barnard Castle’s High Street.
On the way you’ll pass through several attractive villages including Mickleton (just after crossing the River Lune), Romaldkirk, Cotherstone (just after crossing the River Balder) and Lartington, the first three of which all offer hospitality options.
Barnard Castle, which marks the finish of the section, is the major town in the dale and as such, you’ll find everything but a train station or a hospital (not that you should need one hopefully).
Section 8: Barnard Castle to Hurworth-on-Tees | 23 miles/37 km | 921’/281 m | Moderate | GPS FILE
From one of the shortest to the second-longest section on the route, mainly on quiet lanes that undulate, steeply in places. It’s also more twisting because, at the time of writing, Whorlton Bridge (mentioned is Section 3) is closed for repair and likely to remain so for some time. Nevertheless, the route would still cross the River Tees twice on this section, which it does currently via Winston Bridge but otherwise at Whorlton and at Croft-on-Tees.
A couple of miles out of Winston – over the Tees – the route enters North Yorkshire (though you’ll struggle to identify where exactly) then into the Borough of Darlington at Croft Bridge, after crossing the Tees again.
The main attraction in Croft – as far as I’m concerned – is the red Triassic sandstone church of St Peter’s where Lewis Carroll’s father, the reverend Charles Dodgson, was probably it’s most famous rector. Various towns around the North-East claim an association with Lewis Carroll but few are as strong as Croft’s.
There’s another short, steep hill to conquer in Hurworth, which crosses the East Coast Main Line. After that though, it’s plain sailing to the finish of the section at Hurworth-on-Tees. Note the distinction from plain old ‘Hurworth’ because if you don’t, your legs might!
Section 9: Hurworth-on-Tees to Yarm | 10 miles/16 km | 377’/115 m | Easy | GPS FILE
The second of the two shortest sections. Although it’s only ten miles there are a few short gradients up and down the steep floodplain of the River Tees. They’re not so long however that you couldn’t get off and push for the few minutes that each would take (I’m only pointing this out because I’ve claimed that this section is ‘easy’). Elsewhere it’s generally flat and fairly easy pedaling.
Surfaces are generally good, except on the climb out of Neasham and in places through the villages. These include Middleton-St-George, Middleton One Row and Aislaby. Most of the route is quiet though it gets busy between Hurworth and Middleton St. George during rush hour.
Section 10: Yarm to Hartlepool | 18 miles/29 km | 459’/140 m | Easy | GPS FILE
It’ll probably be the distance and traffic (particularly between Yarm and Stockton) as well as switching between road and cycle lanes, that might cause disagreement with my assessment of ‘easy’. There’s an alternative route section suggested on the map but it’ll come down to a personal aversion to traffic. Outside the busiest times I’d simply stay on main roads. Nevertheless, much use is made of cycle paths – crossing or switching on and off the road – to fluidly navigate the busy roads around the suburban sprawl around Stockton.
Once you’ve reached Infinity Bridge, one of several that cross the Tees in Stockton, there’s a long stretch of dedicated cycle path past the Tees Barrage, Portrack Nature Reserve and Newport Bridge. It’s back onto the road again, on an industrial section between Haverton Hill and Cowpen Bewley. Traffic can be heavy at times – including lorries of all types – but the roads are quite wide and there’s at least a partial cycle path which I think is being improved. Attention to timing definitely improves this part of the route.
Beyond the railway crossing out of Cowpen Bewley, there’s a relatively quiet lane which crosses another busy road to join NCN 14 past Cowpen Bewley Country Park for a relaxing ride to Greatham. Shortly after leaving the village, there’s a brief section on the A689 trunk road heading into Hartlepool (NCN 14 continues across the junction and through Owton Manor Estate but my preference is always for the wide, if fast moving, trunk road). Turning right at the first roundabout brings you onto Seaton Lane which takes you to the coast at Seaton Carew. It’s hardly less busy but benefits from a more-or-less continuous cycle lane of sorts, though not one I’ve ever used.
The section from Seaton Carew to the finish at Hartlepool Marina is done mainly on the promenade which can be crowded but pleasantly relaxed (if you don’t fancy potential crowds, you could always use the road). Off the promenade, it’s a short distance through a relatively quiet residential area, to the marina. Ride or push your bike across the narrow dock gates to finish by the marina at ‘the monkey’.
Section 11: Hartlepool to Durham | 24 miles/39 km | 1194’/364 m | Moderate | GPS FILE
Starting at Hartlepool Marina’s monkey, the final section once again makes use of railway paths for much of the journey from the coast back to Durham. At 24 miles, it’s the longest section which, on the profile, seems to offer a significant challenge in terms of ascent though it’s actually more gradual than it looks.
If you REALLY want to, it’s easy to omit the extra couple of miles around the narrow peninsula that comprises Old Hartlepool’s historic Headland area by following the NCN 14 after the second major roundabout (option provided). For me, however, the Headland IS Hartlepool, rich with history and with great coastal views. I only ever miss it out if I’m stuck for time.
Either way, after a short cruise through West Hartlepool’s residential estates you join the Haswell to Hart railway path, mostly unsurfaced and occasionally muddy but a traffic-free alternative to the busy roads that connect the town to the rest of the country. As pleasant as it is, there’s still a long pull onto the East Durham Limestone Plateau – under the A19 at Castle Eden, then on to Wingate where you merge briefly with the NCN 1/EV 12 and cross the busy A181 before arriving in Shotton Colliery where you rejoin the road.
After a few gently undulating miles you reconnect with the NCN 14 at Haswell Plough followed by more quiet miles to the village of Sherburn. Having threaded your way through the local estate, you rejoin the Walney-to-Wear railway path (part of the NCN 14/70) which takes you back to Dragonville and thereafter into the heart of Durham City via what, in daylight hours, are often crowded riverbank paths.
